"body";"title";"FROM_UNIXTIME(nr.timestamp)" "

Read an article in the New York Times today about the role of department store creative directors and how they’re loosing their jobs—kind of end of an era. As the position is described in the article, the creative directors are responsible for scouting new designers and generally keeping the store fresh and giving it character. Um, and they’re getting rid of these people? With few exceptions department stores are anything but fresh and charismatic. They all look the same and sell the same brands and products—thus the price wars and one-day sales.

";"Creativity Gets the Boot";"2009-06-23 16:00:44" "

I always complain. Hey, it’s not my fault. Growing up, my parents were big letter writers. If they felt they weren’t being treated fairly, they put pen to paper. These days, my upbringing has combined with my professional curiosity. Everyone always claims to offer great customer service, so I often test it. My conclusion: I wonder if stores and vendors know what customers really want. For example, recently Revlon discontinued my favorite nail shade, which I wore every day. I sent them an email begging them to reconsider. In return, I got a form letter (expected) that suggested I try one of their new colors. My immediate reaction was, how about a coupon for that purchase? Clearly I’m a loyal (and disappointed) customer, why not extend an olive branch to keep me shopping the brand? How easy and inexpensive would that be? That’s a huge missed opportunity. Now I’m destined to fall in love with another hue and it will probably come from another brand. See ya, Revlon.

";"A Disservice";"2009-06-23 16:11:20" "

So Stella McCartney is doing a kids’ collection with the Gap (http://tinyurl.com/n4q3wa). Marketing sure makes strange bedfellows. Though I think her Adidas collection is relatable with broad appeal, I’m not sure those would be the first words I’d use for her main collection. I’ll be interested to see what this line looks like. It also begs the question of how well some of these other high/low collabs fair at retail (as opposed to in the press). Is a celebrity venture what Gap needs? Tell me, which designer would you like to see taking on the kids’ market.

";"Celeb Designer Hype";"2009-06-23 16:10:22" "

We’re on the eve of our latest Little Steps footwear magazine collaboration with sister pub Footwear Plus. (Read it at http://tinyurl.com/nemjzz) I think this is our third year. Initially our mission was to educate retailers on the value of adding (or expanding on their) shoes. Well, whether we can take sole credit for it or not, it seems many stores are definitely on the bandwagon. Increasingly I hear retailers say that shoes are the one product area that’s doing well—some have added shoe departments while others have opened shoe stores. In general, doesn’t sound like too many have had difficulty figuring out how to stock the sizes and offer the manpower needed to fit them properly. So with the success of Little Steps, what other category should we put in the spotlight?

";"Hot Foot";"2009-06-23 16:14:13" "

What to do when times are tough? Print your own money, of course. That’s what some cities and towns are doing. http://tinyurl.com/qkb4wr Apparently it’s legal, and local currency helps encourage residents to spend locally. With stores and restaurants closing with a scary frequency lately, many people have devised ways to help their city economy. Here in New York, some consumers have opted to pick a few shops they love and patronize them regularly. With community money (sounds like Monopoly), consumers support local business with every dollar spent. Does your city have a similar approach? Does it seem to work?

";"Local Economy Booster";"2009-06-23 16:18:07" "

I know Walmart is a bad word to anyone servicing better tiers, but guess what, they’re the ones benefiting from the economy. Moreover, they just might maintain much of that market share post recovery. Everyone keeps wondering if people will ever return to pre-recession level spending. While I think Americans have extremely short memories and will return to shopping, I don’t think it’ll be with the same abandon as before. (And that’s a good thing—look where it got us.) Stores like Walmart seem to have the same theory. They’re currently positioning themselves to hold onto consumers that have become recent converts. For those that have discovered the low prices that these stores can offer on toothpaste and diapers, why would they opt to pay more? The question becomes, where will they buy items, like clothes, that aren’t solely price dependent? In the case of apparel, mass chains are going to need to boost their quality and style to hang onto bargain shoppers. But that doesn’t mean that better retailers don’t have a few lessons to learn as well. What lessons has the recession taught you about running your business smarter?

 

";"The New Normal";"2009-06-30 10:12:38" "

The sun is shining, kids are out of school and pools and beaches are crowded so naturally retailers across the country are unpacking deliveries of… winter coats. Just as swimwear landed in stores in February when bone-chilling temps made donning a skimpy bikini the least appealing idea ever, outerwear is taking up space (and open to buy) when even the thought of bundling up could lead to heat stroke. Every season the question emerges, why is the product cycle so off? And the query gains more relevance given that shoppers are more buy-now/wear-now oriented than ever. What gives? Why is the apparel industry unable (or unwilling) to adapt? On the current schedule, everyone looses. Department stores’ margins plummet when stock is rushed into deep discounts before the season is even underway in order to make room for the next too-soon delivery. Similarly boutiques have a small window in which to sell their products before the majors go on sale and ruin the season. Is it possible to readjust the product cycle or is this just the rhetorical question for the ages?

";"Season's Greetings";"2009-07-01 10:07:09" "

Given the direction business has been heading, it’s become harder and harder for designers to launch lines in this market. The pressure right out of the gate is to have reliable, inexpensive factories, making the started-out-of-my-garage success stories an endangered species. Then came the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act. And a difficult task became nearly impossible. Though all companies are struggling to meet and pay for the testing and labeling required under the law, little guys who retailers rely on to differentiate their product mix and offer custom items are being forced out of business all together. One retailer and activist has started a grim countdown to the end of the stay. Here, she provides stories of businesses that will buckle under the unintended consequences of the CPSIA. Though we hear lots of talk from the current Administration about helping entrepreneurs and how small businesses will be the ones to lead us out of the recession, businesses of all sizes are struggling and failing under this law. In May, Earnshaw’s reported on the Amend the CPSIA rally on Capitol Hill. I’d love to find out from attendees how the follow up communications have gone and hear from other business owners who have taken proactive steps to get the law amended. You can also continue the discussion in our forum.

 

Read more about the CPSIA:

The law

News

Press coverage 

Activism

Information

More Earnshaw's coverage

";"CPSIA Update";"2009-07-02 12:13:35" "

It's Friday and a holiday weekend so, we're keeping it light...

Behold Sydney in her Jaime Rae Hats chapeau. 

In the first shot, she's pleased to be sporting such a cool hat. In the second, it's just occurred to her that she's not wearing much else... and she's being photographed... and the picture will appear on the Internet. Sorry, Syd.

You will also note, that unlike her supermodel peers, Syd has a healthy body shape. That's thanks to her dad, who writes CookDaddie.com.

Expect to see more of Syd...

";"Friday Fun: Isn't she lovely";"2009-07-03 15:22:07" "

See these shoes? These represent a couple of my spring/summer purchases. How much would you pay for them? No, seriously, how much? See, you can basically name your price given the wide array of price tags (and name brands) associated with identical shoes. I purchased the blue pair for $14, though I've see it retailing for $50 and well over $100. The same shoe in stores at the same time. In fact, that's what caught my attention. I wasn't necessarily blown away by the styling as I window shopped online. I simply couldn't help noticing how frequently it popped up in my browser window. The black pair were a relative bargin at $100, given they also retailed for just shy of $300 elsewhere. In this case, I was unaware of the pricey version until I'd already fallen in love with and procured the less expensive pair. And let's be clear, we're not talking sale prices here. These were regular retail. What gives? Especially in the age of online shopping, who's buying the expensive anything? And of course this all begs the question of why these shoes all look alike, but we'll get to that in another post. How are you able to ensure your store's stock isn't replicated down the block or a click away at half the price?

";"Pricing Highs and Lows";"2009-07-07 10:07:34" "

Do yourself a favor and give the gift of gifts! I can pretty much write the script when I'm talking to retailers about what's selling these days. For most, sportswear is as slow as molasses, imports are risky business and even tween items aren't the sure things they used to be. What almost everyone can agree on though is that gifts practically pay the rent. That's good news because as our vp of sales always says, almost anything can be considered a gift. It's also not surprising given that most of my mommy friends have to work their schedules around the many birthday parties their kids are invited to—not only are these events frequent, but every class member is invited these days. To top this off, the U.S. is experiencing a record birth rate. And where there's a new baby (especially a firstborn) there's at least one shower. I'm just picturing retailers across the country with fingers covered in Band-aids from wrapping present after present. We're doing our part to feed the gift machine with a plethora of gift options in the July issue. With a variety of products to fit all tastes and wallets and distinctive wrapping paper that becomes your calling card at every event, retailers can keep the cash flowing. Tell me, are apparel manufacturers doing a good job of positioning their product lines more toward gift sales? Do you hit the gift shows or are the apparel trade shows offering a wide enough array of product for this segment?

";"Gifted";"2009-07-09 16:15:18" "

Sydney's back and this time in clothes! For those of you who have been following the exploits of our budding supermodel, please note, the introduction of solids is going pretty well though she's shown an affinity for fruits over veggies. Go figure.

Here, Syd sports a lovely, springy Bon Bebe ensemble that is both fashionable and seasonal. She seems to approve.

 
";"Friday Fun: Isn't she lovely pt 2";"2009-07-10 12:20:48" "

A piece that surely was a rerun on this week's Sunday Morning program made me think. (I know, thinking on a weekend, what's next?). It was all about how J Crew launched itself into the bride wars. Designed, I'm assuming, for the anti-bridezilla, the J Crew line aims to give wedding parties easy, value-conscious alternatives to wedding gown warehouses and exclusive ateliers. Though it may not have been the most obvious move from the company, it's been a hit. Finally, a bridesmaid's dress you can wear again (really!).The direction was especially counterintuitive given that according to Jenna Lyons, J Crew's creative director, the focus had been on "making [the brand's offerings] cheaper, making it really available and ubiquitous for everyone." That was until former Gap exec Mickey Drexler took over as CEO and made the company more design focused. Then came Crewcuts and now J Crew has an accessories focus just in time for what many agree is an accessories heyday. This has all been done within the footprint of the original brand--the gowns aren't froufrou, the kids' wear doesn't scream juvenile. So what's to be learned from all of this? Maybe there are categories in your store you need to explode with special focus or private-label product. What are your competitors neglecting or not doing well and how can you capitalize? Drexler says J Crew was missing "vision, point of view, encouraging creativity, detail and respecting your customer." What's your store missing? What are your customers repurposing? What are they shopping gift and adult stores for? Are your customers taking your tees home to bedazzle, adding ribbon tassels to tutus or otherwise embellishing their canvas sneakers? If so, how about custom product or DIY workshops?

 

";"I do!";"2009-07-14 09:21:20" "

The verdict is in: European shows are a must. You never know what you'll get or in what form inspiration will come. Exhibit A: Footwear designer Oca Loca Kids sent models down the runway during Spain's FIMI trade show in tulle dresses adorned with it's latest collection. Talk about fun!

I also judge this a darling front window concept for any retailer offering shoes (and if your store doesn't offer footwear, I sentence you to a lifetime of flagging sales!).

Sidebar: just think of this the next time someone questions the size of your shoe collection given that you only have two feet.

";"Thinking Outside The Shoebox";"2009-07-14 15:49:15" "

This is officially too funny.

Our ad manager, Rita O'Brien, clearly takes her work home with her. First, her kids always want to know if her mood has anything to do with the number of ads she managed to sell that day. Second, her daughter Stella has started speaking in fashion tongues. Just watch this video where she advises a young fan on where to get the best clothes. Is wearing Right Bank Babies while touting Right Bank Babies a conflict of interest? No matter.

";"Stella's vlog: Right Bank Babies edition";"2009-07-17 16:34:53" "

The recession has spawned many dicey situations—between coworkers, friends and family members. Thanks to the lack of cashflow, the relationships between retailers and wholesalers (not to mention reps) could be quite frayed at this point. I heard one manufacturer say that she has 150 accounts that owe her money. Ouch. While it's a given that if product doesn't sell, stores are cash poor, I wonder how these sticky situations are being handled—professionally or unprofessionally. Even before the economy went south, reps and vendors would tell me about retailers who either skipped trade shows or dodge certain aisle to avoid coming face to face with a company they owed money to. Then as things started to slide, tales of unethical behavior began to mount. Today's New York Times has an article about one Chicago store's bad times that lead to bad blood with designers who where previously adoring. As it's told in the story, the shop owners waited way too long before coming clean on their business difficulties, which only got them in deeper. It's scary times. And it seems these two opted for the head-in-the-sand method, which so often turns out to exacerbate rather than ameliorate problems. Using this as a cautionary tale then, what's the best way to deal with the fallout when consumers are no longer interested in consuming? At what point do retailers owe vendors a full accounting? And ultimately, will full disclosure help salvage the relationship?  

(And yes, I realize that though this story deals with retailers owing manufacturers, there are many wholesalers in the same spot with their factories and suppliers. And so it goes...)

";"I O U";"2009-07-16 10:32:12" "

How are you reaching out to retailers who can't make it to your booth or showroom?

You've probably heard this one before but it bears repeating: Why do thieves rob banks? Because that's where the money is.

And in children's wear these days, the money is spread across the country. It's no longer enough to pitch a tent at a trade show or two throughout the year. As retailers choose to economize by skipping markets and continue to order fill-ins from trusted vendors, it's imperative for manufacturers to devise ways to allow buyers to shop from their stores or homes around the clock. Just as retailers with ecommerce sites are more apt to capture additional sales thanks to the sheer convenience, vendors that make buying easier are positioned to grab more market share in these penny-pinching times. One crafty multiline rep has opted to send travel-averse retailers CDs filled with their product images after noticing that market attendance had dropped, especially from outlying areas. Whether you use the mail or the Internet, there are a few musts you have to observe:

--product images must be clear (and possibly show different angles)

--colors and sizes must be shown and/or listed

--all caveats about prepacks, deliveries, etc should be explained

--order forms must be easy to use and submit and result in quick deliveries

";"Follow the money";"2009-08-03 10:25:33" "

Too often after hearing that sales are slow in a particular shop, I'll get a curious answer when I ask what new tactics the shop owner plans to employ: "None." Um, excuse me. Let me get this straight, the result of conducting business as usual has been declining sales and the plan is to... wait it out? Well, maybe these retailers are finding it difficult to come up with new ideas for driving traffic and sales. But what about some old ideas? Recently I conducted a phone consultation for a retailer who has seen her traffic dwindle and was looking for some help. After speaking to her for a few minutes, I noticed a curious pattern. After several of my suggestions, she indicated that she used to do those things. She didn't dismiss them though; instead she decided to reinstitute them so clearly they weren't bad ideas. They had somehow just fallen by the wayside. Is this your story? DId you start off strong when the store was new and you were filled with energy, you know, before allowing other tasks to get you off track? How are your e-communications? Your consumer loyalty programs? Your registry? Your in-store events? I bet you've done all of these, but do you still employ these tactics? If they didn't work, don't look back. But if you found that putting a little effort into these services boosted biz, maybe it's time to go back to the future.

";"Back to the future";"2009-07-29 18:50:41" "

Go to a children’s wear market (or men’s or women’s) and look to your right. Now look to your left. It won’t be long before you realize more than a few items look more than a little familiar. If you’re a buyer, you might see a bonanza of price wars. If you’re a manufacturer, chances are you’re seeing red. Knock-offs, flattering though they might be, are the bane of designers’ livelihoods as copycat designs pop up at every tier. These days knocking off top fashions has become something of a sport. Each day after the Oscars, for instance, television tabloid shows joyfully parade knock-offs of the gowns from the previous night’s festivities. And as I mentioned in an earlier post, it seems to be more prevalent today than ever. But a proposed law in Congress aims to put a stop to it. The Design Piracy Prohibition Act certainly sounds like a good idea, but once you take a closer look at the language in the bill, questions arise. Under this law, designers could register their garments for a three-year protection against copies. So far, so good except the details, or lack thereof, have the fashion industry divided. Supporters of the act look forward say it will protect their ideas and earnings. Opponents say there’s no way to prove who came up with the idea first (only who attempts to protect it first) and the protection could be too broad. For instance, I could protect an elastic-waist, scalloped-edged skirt with ric-rac trim, making it illegal for anyone else to use this rather generic design. Another big concern is that this law, if enacted, would lead to a legal quagmire, as it would be up to each designer to protect their designs through legislation. What do you think? Is a law like this necessary or are the current trademark and patent protections sufficient protections? 

";"Knock it off";"2009-08-01 11:45:22" "

One of the interesting things about this industry is the relationships behind the companies. Whether it's parent and child, siblings, best friends or husbands and wives, lots of businesses on both the retail and manufacturing side are run by people who have long histories together. While an arrangement like this might be scary for some, in most cases it seems to work. One thing I've noticed lately is there's typically a good cop and a bad copy. Recently I polled a few exec teams I know to find out which role they play. It's funny to find out how they see themselves. ("I'm the nice one," they'll eagerly announce, before admitting that without someone to wield the iron fist, they'd be lost.) Depending on whether the situation calls for a soft touch or a stern stance, each partner knows when it's best for the other to take the lead. Together they're able to preserve outside relationships and make the tough decisions. How about you? Are you the good cop or the bad cop?

";"Dual Personalities";"2009-09-22 09:55:45" "

Oh boy did our "Confessions of a Boutique Owner" story in the September issue stir up conversation. It seems lots of you could relate to the unexpected aspects of your chosen careers. One reader Twittered, "Finally, a story I can relate to," while another tweeted about her experiences with shady returns and all types of creatures peeing in the store. Now everywhere I go, people want to spill their stories to me about their retail stores, their designers, their reps, you name it. Keep it coming. I've gotten some good story ideas (and some good inside info that will remain between you and me). Tell me, what other "confessions" would you like to see in the magazine?

";"Tell-All";"2009-09-22 10:31:30" "

I learned my lesson about matchmaking at an early age. I once set up a couple of my friends only to find out how different people can act in dating situations. I was immediately sorry then and I've avoiding fixing people up since then. So naturally I demure whenever I'm asked to suggest a rep to a manufacturer. While it may seem like an odd analogy, I've found that the rep/vendor relationship is a lot like dating. You either have chemistry or you don't. You're either on the same page or you're not. As I found out when I fixed up my friends, since we don't have the same type of relationship, I can't predict how things will turn out. So I stick with my standard reply, "Make sure your line will fit into the rep's current offerings and get references from brands the showroom currently reps." May you live happily ever after. 

";"reps";"2009-09-22 10:58:31" "

Looking at the weather report for the upcoming New York show, I already know what one of the chief topics of conversation will be: Sunday's rain. It's the same every time there's the least little bit of precipitation. Rain, vendors will tell me, means a slow show. Oh wait, maybe, those same designer will speculate, it means retailers will be resigned to being inside the convention center on such a messy day. This is the exchange I'll have all day.
At every booth.
While standing on the show floor.
Whether things are bustling or not.
I'm willing to put money on it.
You'd think we could look around and tell whether the rain has driven people to shop or convinced them to snuggle up on their couches. It's really comical. It makes as much sense as reading palms or tea leaves; it's completely inscrutable because there really is no link between the weather and sales. It just gives us all something to talk about. Short of a freak snow storm (it could happen!), the weather means very little. There are many other tangible (and controllable) reasons sales are made—or not. I'd like to meet the buyer who decides to forgo her responsibilities because her shoes might get soaked or she's short on vitamin D. And if the decision to blow off work is that easy for retailers, than I'll be opening a shop next week... but only if it's sunny.

";"Weather Or Not";"2009-09-29 23:56:01"